Surfers in Donghe > Surfers Interview  
 
Surfers Interview

       After the interview with Bei-Bei, we went to the surfing stores in Donghe for having interviews with surfers. Fortunately, we met three surfers who are willing to have interview with us. One of the surfers is from Japan, and luckily one of our group members is half-Taiwanese, half-Japanese, he can be our translator and let us have the chance to have an interview. Another surfer is a student major in animation in Taitung University, we paid a visit incidentally. The following are our interview record:

Interview process

 
 

Surfer: Lin, Jun-Wei (from Kaohsiung, female, surfing experience: two years)

 

“How did you start surfing?” I say.

 
  “I started surfing due to a TV show, the leading man is so attractive!” she says.  

“How old was you when starting surfing?” I say.

 
 

       “At the age of 28, but I could be better if I started surfing as old as you now. However, you can’t just go to surfing, you also need to do some training usually, including core training which could enhance the ability of your core muscles. Also, warm yourself to avoid any sport injury.” she says.

“What is the most impressive competition you had been in?” I say.

 
 

       “I have participated three competitions, and two of them make me impressed. The competition in Wuhsih harbor in Yilan last year, the waves on the sea are very small, I could dig the sand underwater while I was surf-riding. The other one was at north of Taiwan in winter, the waves were very giant, as I finally started surfing, it left only one minute to go. I think that not only the surfing skills but the luck and imposing manner are also important. I hope I can be more progressive next year, competition can let us see the lacks and improve ourselves.” she says.

“What is the standard of evaluation in surfing competition?” I say.

 
  “It base on the exhibition of basic action, and do different actions coordinated to different waves.” she says.  

“How long does one game take?” I say.

 
  “The preliminary takes 15 minutes, and the final takes 20 minute. You have to grasp your time to gain higher score.” she says.  

“Have you even been injured in surfing?” I say.

 
 

       “Yes, actually, I hit on a rock yesterday. Fortunately, I didn’t have any badly injury yet. However, my waist always get pain, so warm myself completely is important. In fact, the ocean is not dangerous as people think. The key is to understand the properties of sea currents, to avoid yourself surrounded by danger.” she says.

“What is the benefit of surfing to you?” I say.

 
  “I did have a regular daily routine, I usually went to bed very late, however, surfing change my whole daily routine. I keep good hours for surfing. Surfing decrease my demand for material, I don’t really need night life anymore. After be in touch with ocean, I see the world much easier, and never mind those tiny things any longer. The happiest thing in my life now is going to the beach everyday if I can.” she says.  

“Do your family support you for surfing?” I say.

 
 

       “In the beginning, they do not support me because they thought surfing is dangerous due to the fear of water. And they didn’t like girl to get tanned that much. Nevertheless, they saw surfing changed my daily routine regularly, they started to support me, and urging me to be careful and be safe. Sometimes, they would share my surfing photos to friends and family, which make me so happy!” she says.

“Do you have your own surfboard?” I say.

 
 

      “Yes, I do, it’s secondhand one, because a new surfboard is too expensive. A secondhand surfboard could be used for long if you used it nicely and protected it carefully.” she says.

Interview process

 
 

Surfer: Kouji Hamauzu (From Japan, male, surfing experience: two years)

 

“Where were you live in Japan?” I say.

 
  “I live in Tokyo.” he says.  

“Why let you visit Donghe?” I say.

 
  “Because the waves are great, and also the landscape.” he say.  

“Which one’s waves do you like more? In Donghe or in Japan?” I say.

 
  “I like the waves in Donghe more because it is more comfortable, and people here are so friendly, here is a good spot.” he says.  

“What time do you come here?” I say.

 
 

       “I visit Donghe when I have long vacation, I live and surf by exchange accommodation. I will go back to Japan two days after, and I will be back on my next vacation.” he says.

Interview process

 
 

Surfer: Surfing Boy (From Taitung, male, surfing experience: two years)

 

“Where are you from?” I say.

 
  “I live here!” he says.  

“How old did you start to surf?” I say.

 
  “Age of 18, I already surf for 2 years, I am 20 now.” he says.  

“Have you ever participated any competition?” I say.

 
  “I participated competitions in Wuhsih harbor in Yilan and an international competition in Taitung last year, and our team won the third prize of the team event.” he says.  

“Have you ever joined a competition abroad?” I say.

 
  “No, I have not, but we will go surfing abroad this April.” he says.  

“Did you got injured while surfing?” I say.

 
  “Yes, for many times, for instance, I hit by my surfboard and cut by the rocks and shells.” he says.  

“What is the reason for you to begin to surf?” I say.

 
  “Because I think surfing is extremely cool!” he says.  

“What was the most impressive competition for you?” I say.

 
  “The international competition in Taitung last year, because it was a big game and all the surfers were very good.” he say.  

“What was the feeling about your first surfing?” I say.

 
  “It was difficult, and also far from I thought.” he says.  

“What is your favorite surfing spot?” I say.

 
  “The river mouth of Donghe.” he says.  

“What are you thinking when you are surfing?” I say.

 
  “I am figuring out why I failed in the previous wave, and tried to do well in the next one.” he says.  

“Is many foreigners surf here?” I say.

 
  “Yes, because it is snowing in Japan now, that is the reason why it have a lot of Japanese surfers here, recently.” he says.  

“Do you have any surfing course here?” I say.

 
         “Yes, we have surfing course in summer, and we have the surfing association, which planned a surfing education for 12 years, including not only surfing, but also swimming, knowledge of sea and race culture. Last year was the first year of this plan, I hope these courses can develop more and more excellent surfers.” he says.  

Interview process

 
 

Surfer: Siao,Yu-Dian (From Kaohsiung, male, surfing experience: 2 years)

 

“What are the tips of surfing?” I say.

 
 

“I go to the beach every day, and the waves are different every day, too. There is no tip for surfing, just practice every day, and you can learn new thing from it.” he says.

 

“Which board do you prefer? Longboard or shortboard?” I say.

 
 

“I prefer the shortboard, because longboard is heavier, using it waste more energy while surfing. In the other hand, the shortboard is lightener, and it could achieve higher speed.” he says.

 

“Why do you love surfing?” I say.

 
 

       “Actually, I did like surfing in the beginning, since I was closed to death when I first try, which waves were so giant. However, my friends encouraged me to back to surf again, and I tried and had fun, then I decided to learn how to surf formally, and I love surfing eventually.” he says.

 

“Where did you surf recently?” I say.

 
  “I surfed in ChangKang recently, since the northeast wind caused chinooks, it made it not suitable for surfing.” he says.  

“What is the benefit of surfing for you?” I say.

 
 

       “Surfing makes me be healthier. Because when I was fresh in university, I went to classes every day, and back home or met my friends after school. But after I started surfing, I went to sleep early for waking up early and surfing, it changed my daily routine regularly.” he says.

 

“How many surfboard do you have?” I say.

 
  “Two, both are shortboard.” he says.  

“Have you ever participated a competition?” I say.

 
 

“I want to join a game but I can’t, because the competitors are too strong. I could join a game once, but I had something else to handle, I just quitted the game.” he says.

 

“Which season do you like to surf?” I say.

 
 

       “I like winter, because you need to wait for a typhoon to have great waves, it would be no wave in the normal day. But in the winter, it have northeast monsoons, after the period, the waves are suitable for surfing.” he says.

 

“Do you family agree you to surf?” I say.

 
  “They just hope I would surf carefully.” he says.  
     
 
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