Cheongsam 
Sewing Tools
To do anything, you want to use the right tool for the job. In making a cheongsam, outside of the tailor’s skills and craftsmanship, tools are the indispensable element. Let us look at the tailoring tools required for making the cheongsam.
Trimmers, Curved ruler, and Electric iron
◆Curved ruler
Mainly used to take the client’s measurements. The tailor will custom make the gown based on the client’s measurements, so all the measurements will be recorded.
◆Trimmers
Two types of trimmers are used: fabric scissors and thread scissors. Fabric scissors are used to cut textiles and feature different handles from regular scissors. Thread scissors, specialized to cut stitches and threads, are shorter and lighter.
◆Rulers
Rulers are categorized into straight rulers and curve rulers, and are used when cutting and punch-boarding. The curve ruler is used on the hips and waist—the curvy areas—and ease radian adjustments.
◆Powder Coating
Powder coating is used to make markings on fabrics. They are also used to mark things while punch-boarding. Patting on the fabric with one’s hand will remove the marking.
Master Chen using crayon
Master Chen using paste
◆Glue
Use to secure fabric against fabric, such as for the attachment of the inner layer to the outer layer, which must be really secure and tight. The master must adjust the glue’s thickness based on his needs, as the glue must be used throughout the cheongsam’s tailoring process. Just about everything, trims and all, must be glued, because the fabric is very thin and the glue will add support, helping to secure the fabric and retain its shape.
◆Bead Needle
Use to temporarily support fabric pieces or paper board models, easing the machine sewing.
◆Iron
Used to iron the fabric or to tidy up the finished product. Because the fabric is very soft and easy to wrinkle, one can spray with water and then iron to arrange the fabric, making it tidy and flat.
◆Coverstitch Machine
Used to sew the rims. It intertwines multiple threads to tightly secure the fabric rims, folding back the edges and making sure that there are no hairy edges. Master Chen uses a triple thread coverstitch machine, which includes one straight needle and two curved needles.
Coverstitch machine
◆Sewing Machine
Can be used to sew the fabric, in either straight or curved lines.
◆Thimble
Filled with tiny holes and usually worn on the middle finger, it is used to push against the tail end of the needle and avoid injury. Also, using a thimble can give the finger greater strength, making it convenient to puncture the needle through clothing.
◆Needle
Needles are categorized into machine needles and sewing needles. Machine needles are used in sewing machines and the correct thickness must be determined using the fabric’s thickness. Fabrics used in making cheongsam s are typically quite soft, so we’d use machine needles with smaller size codes. Sewing needles also vary in thickness, and even length. Usually, needles with larger code numbers are thinner.
◆Thread
Threads are also categorized in to machine sewing threads and hand sewing threads, and also vary in thickness. In cheongsam production, machine sewing threads are used to connect different pieces of fabric together, while borders and trims are treated with hand sewing needles.
◆Awl
When machine sewing, use the awl to press on the cloth in place of the finger, to prevent accidental piercing injuries. The awl can also be used to tear away machine stitches.
