Cheongsam 
Booking
So what should you do when you want to order a cheongsam? Now that The Assassin is on wide showing, we trust a lot of people got to know about Master Chen’s excellent craftsmanship and crowded over to have their own cheongsam made. So we asked Master Chen about how to order a cheongsam and about any issues worthy of attention.
Discussing the style with Master Chen
The first step in ordering a cheongsam is to find a tailor, meaning a tailor you actually like. Then you discuss through styles and prices. Once both parties understand and confirm everything, the order is considered made.
The second step is to pick out your fabric at the textile store, in accordance with the style and coloring previously discussed with the tailor. Master Chen informed us that any fabric can be used to make a cheongsam, but the difficulty involved in its production will vary depending on the fabric quality, as will the feel of the cheongsam when it is complete. For example, real silk is soft and harder for the tailor to handle, but will result in a gown with better shine and gloss, while cotton is easy to clean but easily shrinks. For that, soaking must be done prior to production so that the finished gown would be less prone to shrinking.
Step three is to make measurements. For that, Master Chen suggests that the wearer arrive in a long skirt, girdle free, so that the most accurate measurements could be made. He would use tools such as tape measures and waist trimmer belts to measure body height, back length, sleeve length, and measurements for the small back, breast, bust, waist, hip, and so on. Finally, the tailor would give out a business card with the client’s order number on it, which is like his order receipt.
Choosing the fabric
Measuring the size of body
Step four is the actual production. Depending on the fabric used and style chosen, production difficulty and production time will vary. We asked about how fast a cheongsam can be made, and Master Chen said that a foreign traveller ordered one once and needed the gown before her departure, so he worked day and night and got it done in three days. But Master Chen is advancing in age now, so please be considerate and avoid wearing him out. It would be best to reserve a month of time and give him the chance to get every detail just right!
Step five begins when the tailor has finished the first draft. He will call the client to test the gown out, so as to make adjustments on the fine details. He will also speak with the client about the degree of fit desired at the shoulders and waist, and pin mark the semi-finished product so as to easily make corrections.
Choosing the style of befrogged
If the client likes the befrogged (traditional fancy flower buckles), she can also choose the befrogged style and colour at this time. The master tailor will have a befrogged specialist make the befrogged, and then sew them onto the cheongsam.
After the above steps, a beautiful, tight fitting custom made cheongsam would be complete. If the client doesn’t mind, she can leave her beautiful image in the Master’s tablet, in order to serve as reference for future clients.
The flow chart of ordering process
