1、 Before the invasion of Manchu people：According to the climate and the way of hunting, riding and archery, the basic shape of Manchu people’s robe is: crew neck, horseshoe neck, narrow sleeves, girdle, twisted placket.

2、After the invasion of Manchu people：The robes were separated and had difference between man’s and woman’s. Woman’s style were stick to one-piece robes that upper and lower parts are connected; they were strictly forbidden to were Han people’s clothes style which was tops and skirts. In the early Qing Dynasty, the royal woman’s robes were less decorated and simple style. The shape of the outfit was narrow on top and wide at the bottom like triangular shape. Crew neck, right lapel, buckle, sleeves were tightened under the armpits, narrow sleeves, and the cuff ends were horseshoe-shaped. After middle period, the robe and its sleeves were wide and loose, the cuffs were straight with white edges. The part of the neck was tied with a narrow scarf, and the hem was hanging on the floor. Woman’s robe included sleeveless top and began to have ruyi-shaped piping, and embroidery. In the late period, the royal, noble woman’s robe were with sleeves, collars, slits and other trimmings which had many layers, and delicate patterns. Some aristocratic women’s robes were in simple style, and were used plain fabrics. Some sleeves were with layered sleevelets which were big and delicate; some were narrow sleeves and with tight sleevelets (vests, bustier)

3、After the Republic of China：During the fifteen or sixteen years of the Republic of China, the outfits with short lined jacket and long skirts were gradually declined. Women in Shanghai changed to wear qipao. Clothing style at that time; high and hard collar, loose waist, four buttons on the collar, qipao with above-elbow sleeves in summer, long sleeves in winter with wide cuffs. In the 20th year of the Republic of China, Chiang Kaishek advocated a new life movement. All female students had to wear qipao which was short-sleeved, indanthrone blue qipao in summer, with white socks and black shoes, showing the curves and simplicity of young women, and this blue cloth qipao style suddenly became Shanghai fashion. At this time, the style of the qipao: lowered the collar, narrowed the cuffs and waist, and piping.

In the turbulent 1940s, the style of qipao showed a simple and practical style: the sleeves were from short and then became sleeveless, and the skirt was about five or six centimeters below the knee. After the victory over Japan, accessories such as zippers, shoulder pads, and buttons were used extensively, presenting a simple and modern feel. After 1949, the Shanghai style qipao was popular in Hong Kong. The waist fit, the measurements svelte, the collar was high and hard, showing the female neck line and elegant temperament. After the relocation of the Republic of China evacuated to Taiwan, it led to a prevalent of qipao, which didn’t declined until the early 1970s. Qipao masters or designers put qipao elements into fashion. Filmmakers and artists were keen on qipao. Even western brands and designers had begun to pay attention to qipao.

4、Formulation and abolition of national dress：Warlord Sun Chuanfang once ordered that Shanghai women were forbidden to wear qipao because of detriment to the society. The government of the Republic of China issued a decree in 1929 to annoounce qipao as one of the national dresses. The first ladies of the Republic of China often wore qipao more often which is like western-style dresses on diplomatic occasions. When the DPP came to power in 2003, "Due to changes in time and space, it is no longer appropriate to wear qipao; based on clothing culture, life etiquette and aesthetics should be educated, and promoted and no longer to follow under peremptory norms, so Legislative Yuan promulgated by the President order No. 09200105560 and announced it is abolished.

▲1Wan Rong and Pu Yi in 1920

▲2Zhou Xuan wearing qiapo in the first half of the 20th century

In 1919, the Japanese governor in Taiwan, Kenjiro Ta, implemented the "Assimilation Policy" in Taiwan, asking Taiwanese to abandon the consciousness and culture of the Han nationality, which directly led to the rebound of Taiwanese elites and developed the first "New Culture Movement" in Taiwan. We can see one-piece qipao that became popular in 1930s.

Although under the condition of severe lack of materials, Taiwanese women still modified their dowry clothes into qipaos to express their sense of identity with China. The qipao fever in this period was short. After February 28 incident, it faded quickly. During the incident, attacks on people who wore qipao and Zhongshan (Chinese tunic suit) occurred.

From 1950s to 1960s, as the government moved to Taiwan, a large number of military and civilians from other provinces brought the third big hit of qipao. Driven by film and television singers, Miss R.O.C., and even the ladies of the upper class, it became a big hit for ten years and then gradually faded.

After 1980s, with the diversification of society and the edification of Western culture, young women almost wore dresses on casual and formal occasions, and the official one is the same. In the past, in major ceremonies like the inauguration of the President of the R.O.C. and National Day, "Gin Chai" (female receptionist) wore qipao until the inauguration in 2016 then changed to wear dress. Since 1962, China Airlines flight attendants’ uniforms have also been based on qipao.

▲Gin Chai in the president inauguration

▲China Airlines uniform

In the early twentieth century, it was popular that people wore short lined jacket with flared sleeves and sleeveless long vest dragged on the ground. Since then, some changes had been made to the qipao at the sides, sleeves, plackets, collars, etc., the decoration had been increased, and complicated changes appeared. However, the straight and wide style of the old qipao and the vest were still maintained, and the traditional straight cutting method is adopted, which does not reveal the woman's slim figure.

In the late 1920s and 1930s, the qipao repeated the changes in length, width, slit height, sleeves, short sleeves, high collar and low collar. In 1929, due to the influence of short skirts in Europe and the United States, the moderate-length qipao began to shorten, the hem was shortened to the knee, and the cuffs became shorter and smaller. Later, there was a school uniform-style qipao, with a hem shrinking to an inch above the knee, and sleeves in western style. This change was criticized. After 1931, the qipao began to lengthen again, and the hem sagged. It developed to the extreme level in the middle of 1930s. The bottom of the robe covered the feet and was called a "sweeping qipao". The sleeves of the qipao, which could cover the wrists, were shortened to the elbows. Later, the sleeve length became shorter and shorter, shrinking to two inches under the shoulder, and almost sleeveless after 1936.

In Qing Dynasty, qipao did not split, then qipao quietly had low slit on the left when shortening its sleeves. Later, the slits became higher and higher and gradually reached the knees then to the thighs. Due to objections, qipao’s slit was below the knee again. However, as the pressure of public opinion reduced, qipao’s slit rose rapidly again, and after 1933, qipao with high slit was popular.

Traditional qipao is a straight line up and down, plus a high rigid collar. In the beginning of 1930s, the waist of qipao began to shrink over time. After 1934, all the curves of the female body were finally revealed. The collars to the ear gradually became shorter, and some became collarless qipao.

▲Above: Teacher Chen Zhongxin and his qipao works