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  5
Far & Away Road to the Past
Forgotten Paradise

 Before entering Old Paiwan a big stone wall can be seen. You must stop here to watch the peaceful slabstone houses; you will also see North Dawu Mt. to the east if you’re lucky, unless the clouds have shrouded the mountaintops. Looking down at the road edge you will see the originating grounds of Paiwan Tribe, but although it may look close to reach it requires tiresome climbing. The Mafa road from the Japanese Occupation period also runs beneath and along it there are 5 or 6 villages worth visiting. Even though Old Paiwan Tribe had relocated 33 years ago and many houses have collapsed, but walking through the village the tranquillity is so evident that it is truly a forgotten paradise. In the last 3 years the Pingtung County Government have enthusiastically renovated Old Paiwan and many signboards were erected to educate tourists. Extra toilets were built in the village and houses were renovated while preserving the past. Such renovations may not benefit everyone though, as the pureness and simplicity of the village may be difficult to maintain once tourists come in masses.

◎Records of First Glimpse of Paiwan:
First Glimpse of Paiwan (22/11/2006)
Recorded by: Hsiao-ning


  In the dark-cloudy morning it rained, but the sky soon cleared at just past 10AM. It was a spectacular blue-sky covered with strands of white clouds and the mountains behind the school appeared even greener and clearer. The teacher suddenly wanted to cancel the afternoon schedule to Old Paiwan Village, since it was far, and asked if anyone agreed, but no one raised a hand and the teacher had to comply disappointingly. We were all going after all! So we sat out in 3 cars after cheering noisily!

 After passing the Aboriginal Cultural Park, our car rode on winding mountain roads, with the teachers’ 3 cars following closely. After 15 minutes of driving we were stopped by diggers. We watched the digger dig up pile after pile of gravel to repair the road surface while we slowly passed by on a road wide enough for one car. We were all very nervous since on the other side of the road was a deep fall into the valley. After we passed the diggers we followed on the mountain road, which was blanketed with fallen rocks of various sizes – the biggest stone was as big as a half-car. Also, dangerous branches and sharp weeds also sped by over the windows. Finally with everyone complaining of dizziness we arrived at Paiwan.

 

 The clear blue sky and clouds at the bottom of the mountain has now been replaced by cloud-covered mountain-tops. However as soon as we got off the car we saw the waterfall hanging on the mountain opposite us. What a magnificent view! It was hard not to deeply inhale the clean air. Due to time the teachers only led us for a quick tour. We walked through slabstone houses with over 400 years old, and there is history and stories everywhere. I hope that the time for us to spend a night here comes quickly – it will be an evening filled with legends, stories and nose-flutes. Although the teacher is not from Paiwan Village, we were still awed by her geographical and historical knowledge - she must have read many books. We also must work harder. We left Paiwan Village while strands of rain fell from the sky. couldn’t help but promise myself that I would return to enter this hundred-year old place and bask in her spiritual glory.

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