Standing at the intersection of
Chang Chun Road and Gi Lin Road in Taipei, you can see the sign
of Howgi Tan-a-Mi glittering. It is as if the sign is welcoming
all those who love traditional Taiwanese food.
Gi Lin Road bristles with business buildings whose neon lights
glimmering all the time. There used to be a lot of infamous
“barbers/beauty parlors” (a.k.a. porn industry in Taiwan)
in the area. After the city government swept aside the sex business
there in 1995, the bustling Gi Lin Road became quiet gradually
and was desolate for a period. However, instead of sex workers,
nowadays, you can see one restaurant after another alongside
the road, with their own features and fine food. Now the area
of Gi Lin Road is known for its variety of delicacies. The restaurants
there serve traditional Taiwanese food or fresh seafood which
can surely cater to picky gourmets.
Some say that it was Howgi Tan-a-Mi who brought Gi Lin Road
back to life. Some others may think it's overstated. However,
the undeniable fact is that Howgi Tan-a-Mi attracted constant
streams of people and made Gi Lin Road flourish. Not only have
the delicious Taiwanese cuisines of Howgi Tan-a-Mi attracted
people here, its success has also encouraged many other restaurants
to open on Gi Lin Road. It was how Gi Lin Road got revived.
What kind of charisma could a place that sells Tan-a-Mi possess?
How can it attract people island-wide and world-wide? Let us
introduce 好記to you and share with you Howgi Tan-a-Mi's unique
flavor and its genuine Taiwanese spirits! The Rise of Howgi Tan-a-Mi
The
400 square-feet Old Howgi
In 1993, Mr. and Mrs. Lin Chi-hon
bought the 430-square feet storefront at the intersection of
Chang Chun Road and Gi Lin Road. They called it “Howgi Che-a-Mi”.
From the beginning, they kept thinking about how they could
change their stall which sold everyday noodle soup and side
dishes to fit into the neighborhood. They determinedly closed
the stall for half a month and went to Tainan to try out different
kinds of traditional Taiwanese food. They finally decided to
sell Tan-a-Mi. They tried almost every Tan-a-Mi stall in Tainan,
and studied the differences between the flavors of northern
and southern Taiwan. They even went to inspect the process of
the replenishment of the materials. After their survey, Mr.
and Mrs. Lin thought about opening a restaurant which featured
traditional flavors. Howgi Tan-a-Mi was then born. Being Thankful for Old Howgi
At the beginning, Howgi Tan-a-Mi was just a small stall on Gi
Lin Rd. The stall itself looked just like a regular noodle stall.
However, the hustle and bustle of waiters moving around serving
noodles often drew the attention of passers-by. People just
couldn't resist the idea of trying a small bowls of noodles,
wanting to find out what's so good about them. This small stall
with the sign of Old Howgi kept luring customers and finally
made itself known. With Mr. and Mrs. Lin's hard work, Howgi
has won a fabulous reputation. We asked Mr. Lin what's his
key to success. He answered thankfully, “Howgi has opened for
more than a decade. Why Howgi holds on through difficulties
is not because of a legacy left by ancestors, nor of secret
recipes passed down from the past. Our success lies in sticking
to traditional Taiwanese flavors, friendliness and delicacies.
We also insist on creating Howgi's own flavor of Tan-a-Mi.
We share Howgi's love of Taiwan with the friends who also love
the island from all over the world.” Old Photos of Provintia
The
origin of Tan-a-Mi written on the old photo of Provintia
Old Howgi was decorated and separated
into two different spaces according to the theme always remembering
where you come from. Old pictures of Provintia in Tainan are
hung in the space close to the kitchen, while on the wall nearby
the noodle-cooking area are two pictures. One is of fishermen
in the costal area of Tainan eating noodles on the curb. The
other one is a picture of a shoulder pole of an old Tan-a-Mi
stall at Taipei Roundabout. These old faded photos show the
humble roots of people in Tainan. They reminded us of the harsh
times when just a small bowl of Tan-a-Mi can be used to support
a whole family. Howgi's Watchword
A watchword written by the manager is posted on the wall next
to the employees who cook noodles. It says, “We have opened
for more than a decade! Any unforgivable mistakes made on our
service or on the food we serve would drive our customers away!”
This watchword is the most important belief of all Howgi employees
and therefore it's the one guideline that they would never
fail to comply with. Customer service and culinary process are
every Howgi employee's top priority. Tasty Flavor of Howgi
Old
Howgi's bamboo tube for ladles
Near the kitchen stove of Old Howgi
stand four bamboo tubes. Inside the bamboo tubes are ladles,
noodles, rice noodles and processed bean sprouts inside them.
The four tubes are separately inscribed with the words, Taiwanese
Flavors, Old Flavors, Friendliness and Delicacies. These four
phrases reveal Howgi's true passion. Elder customers would recall
their good old days while young customers can find the impressions
of their predecessors. The delicacies of Howgi are rich in friendliness
and old flavors. They also convey the one-of-the-kind flavor
of Taiwan.
Background
Music: Unforgettable First Lover, Teresa Teng, Our Songs,
Taiwanese Songs, Golden Penguin Records
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Produced
by the Tan-a-Mi-philes ,Taipei Municipal Xi-Hu Elementary School, Taipei,
Taiwan Contact E-mail address: hsyea@tp.edu.tw