Age-Old
Tan-a-Mi stall at Taipei Roundabout
(photo provided by Howgi Tan-a-Mi)
Situated in the southeastern coast
of Eurasia in the western Pacific, Taiwan has a total land area
of 36,000 square kilometers. With relatively crucial geographical
position, Taiwan has long been acclaimed as a beautiful island
for centuries. In 1542, as Portuguese sailors sailed past Taiwan
en route to Japan, they were so stunned by sight of the lush
forested mountains on the island that they couldn't help but
exclaiming “Ilha Formosa,” meaning the beautiful island.
The beauty of Taiwan includes not only mild climate, abundant
commodities, but also the diversified culture created by Taiwanese
people's tolerant and industrious spirit. The realization
of Taiwanese spirit ranges from highly developed information
technology industry to traditional Taiwanese cuisines.
Tan-a-Mi is one of the outstanding attribute of traditional
Taiwanese cuisines. A small bowl of noodle soup symbolizes Taiwanese
people's profound hardworking spirit. Originated in Tainan,
Tan-a-Mi is the most famous street cuisine in Tainan.
※ Translator's Note: Tan-a-Mi is the Taiwanese pronunciation
of a special kind of street style noodle soup originated in
Tainan. In Mandarin it's pronounced like “Dan-zih-Mien.”
Therefore, both Mien and Mi means “noodles” while Dan-zih
or Tan-a refers to a traditional type of shoulder pole that
laborers used to carry to sell or transport goods. On this website,
we choose to use the term Tan-a-Mi in order to stay true and
coherent to our common local usage.
Early
fishermen sitting on the curb eating noodles.
(photo provided by Howgi Tan-a-Mi)
Mr. Hung Yu-Tou founded the genuine
Du-siao-yue Tan-a-Mi in 1895. Mr. Hung made a living by fishing
in An-ping area in Tainan. The time from April to September
every year is the slack season for fishing business. Businessmen
used to call this period “slack months.” In order to survive
the slack months (Du-siao-yue means surviving the slack months
in Taiwanese) , instead of going fishing, Mr. Hung would hawk
along the street, carrying his shoulder pole with the noodle
soup he made. That's where the name “Tan-a-Mi” came from
(Tan-a in Taiwanese means “shoulder pole”). Mr. Hung applied
the recipe of minced pork he learned from a chef in Changchou,
Fukien to making the noodle soup, by adding the stewed minced
pork to the soup. He then did his business regularly in front
of Shuei-Shein Temple. Locals who were tired of eating regular
homemade meals would go to his stall to enjoy the noodles for
a change. As the weather got hotter, people ate less, Mr. Hung
put less noodles in the soup. His stall business gradually prospered,
and the reputation of Du-siao-yue Tan-a-Mi became widespread.
The stall of Du-siao-yue Tan-a-Mi
is famous for its low stove, small bamboo stools, and red lanterns;
however, the true secret of Du-siao-yue Tan-a-Mi's tasty flavor
actually lies in the age-old pot where minced pork are stewed.
The pot is said to be more than three decades old, and it's
never been washed in case the traditional flavor goes away.
As time goes by, diners simply cannot resist the stewing smell
of minced pork.
The assiduous and frugal locals in Tainan know that they can
always go to Du-siao-yue Tan-a-Mi to sit on its old bamboo stools
and taste a bowl of steaming hot Tan-a-Mi under the dim light
of the red lanterns. This is the most attractive feature of
Du-siao-yue Dan-a-Mi-age-old and primitive atmosphere that
always gives people a sense of nostalgia.
Noodles, minced pork, broth, minced garlic, black vinegar, fresh
shrimps, with a stewed egg or sliced sausage as its side dish,
Tan-a-Mi has been transformed into a refined delicacy. Tan-a-Mi
is served in almost every food court in department stores and
malls in Taiwan. It is an island-wide famous cuisine now.
Background
Music: An-ping Port Memory Song, Teresa Teng, Our Songs,
Taiwanese Songs, Golden Penguin Records
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Produced
by the Tan-a-Mi-philes ,Taipei Municipal Xi-Hu Elementary School, Taipei,
Taiwan Contact E-mail address: hsyea@tp.edu.tw